Here is what you need:

    Needle, White thread, Black thread, & sizzor
    Moderate weight White linen
    Moderate weight Black linen

1) Take white sheet of linen, however long you you think you need.
    Or how many cockades your planning on makeing.
     Cut out squares roughy 5 inches long  X  9 inches wide
     Just  long enough that will fit the side of your chappau.

2) Once you cut out your square, your going to hem a seam around
    the square.  There is no rule how wide the hem should be but
    to make a rule of thumb, hem less than a 1/4 of inch.
    Always keep your stiching small and close.

3) Once you completed the last step, here is the hardest part.
    You must create and offset pleate at this point.
    To do this you are going to use your best judgment.
    Your going to fold the fabic from top to bottom, in a back
     and forth motion.  Fold foward, then fold back, fold foward and
    then fold back.. so forth.
         Create the fold 13 times.

    The 13 folds represents the French paying homage to the American 13 
colonies.

4) Now your square is a longated "stick".  Keep pressing down with
    Your fingers to firmly create the creases.  Or if you wish press down
    with a cool iron

5) Now let go. You should have your square folded or expanded like an
    accordian.

6) Grab each fold from the bottom to the top and overlay each fold
    one on top of the other to create a shingle effect. Hold on to it
    tightly between your fingers.  The folds will have to lay flat, if
    not - use and iron or something that will make the folds lay still.
    Do the best you can because only a perfectionist will get this
    exactly right.

7) With the hat in the other hand, carefully slide or stuff the the folded
    white square under the rope lace that wrapps around the button.

8) After you completed that attempt, take the bottom fold of the white
    cockade and slide it snuggly between the hat button and chapau
    You completed the white French cockade.

9) Next step: Black American cockade.
    Cut out black squares roughly 3 1/2 long   X  5 inches wide.
    Then begin to thread your needle with black thread.

10) Hem the squares like you would with the white cockade.
      Hem less than 1/8 of inch around the square

11) After that, create the folds and pleats.  Your going to fold the
      cockade 8 times - one fold for every French Provinces deployed
      to America

12) Now your square is a longated "stick".  Keep pressing down with
     Your fingers to firmly create the creases.  Or if you wish press down
     with a cool iron.

13) Press your fingers at the center of the cockade.
      At the center only, begin to sew the cockade closed.
      Once done its going to look like a bow tie.

14) After that now slide the cockade under the rope lacing over the
      white cockade.

15) Now your going to create a bunting out of the black cockade.
     Your going to going to create what looks like a ladys fan or a
     half rossette.

16) Take the first one or two of the top folds and fan them up together.

17) From the bottom center of the black cockade your going to
      to sew the fold layers shut, over the rope lacing.

18) As an option you can anchor the black and with cockades together
      by sewing them together so that you will not loose either cockade.

And then.. bingo ! You got your French cockade.

Silk was used for the French Army, but for regiments who have higher
rankings.  Such as regiments stationed in Europe or India or in France.